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  #1  
Old 08-23-2010, 12:43 AM
Rrdstarr
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Default Humminbird transducer cable?

My PiranhaMax 160 came with the 30' cable, but I have managed to damage it and need to replace it. Do I HAVE to use the 30' cable or can I use the 10' that Humminbird has? Using the chart for compatibility it says I can.
http://store.humminbird.com/products/322952/EC_W30
http://store.humminbird.com/products/322951/EC_W10
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Old 08-23-2010, 07:26 AM
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Lt.FireDog Lt.FireDog is offline
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Both the cables you listed are extension cables only. Transducer cables can't be sliced (or so I've been told), so you need to replace the complete transducer.
How is the cable damaged? If you have to replace it, look into the Humminbird XTH-9-20-P, it's the thru-hull unit that is designed to work with the transducer compatible scupper on your OK Trident.
It would be nice if Humminbird would shorten the cables (10-15') for kayak specific installations.
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Old 08-23-2010, 10:35 AM
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here's a page that runs you thru the cable repair. They can indeed be spliced successfully.

http://www.idofishing.com/forum/show...-from-lowrance
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Old 08-23-2010, 11:04 AM
sanddog sanddog is offline
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Red face cable repair

Some years ago during the winter a rabbit got in my garage and chewed a Hummingbird transducer cable in half.If you have enough good cable left and can solder you can open the 7 pin connector and shorten and resolder the cable.It's really not hard and worked fine afterwords...
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Old 08-23-2010, 02:13 PM
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Lt.FireDog Lt.FireDog is offline
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Good to know it can be done...I was told by a rep from RayMarine that it would effect the accuracy by allowing interference from other electronics. I do like the idea of opening the 7-Pin Connector, shortenibg the cable and re-soldering the pins as opposed to an inline splice.
No matter, this should save you some money!!
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Old 08-23-2010, 05:32 PM
sanddog sanddog is offline
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Red face shortened cable

Lt-Perhaps the interference could occur but on my yaks I only have the ff and a gps.I guess if it were a motor that could happen.
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Old 08-24-2010, 02:30 AM
Rrdstarr
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I had a meltdown when I unplugged the battery last time. Seems my positive and ground touched and melted each other all the way back to the battery. The wires were teeny 22gauge from the looks of it? I am damn lucky I didn't melt a hole in the boat!!!! I'll have to take a closer look at the cable, it maybe only the plastic/rubber shielding is damaged.

I have bought some 12 gauge wire, in-line fuse and 2 wire plug like this to repair the power cable.


I just looked at my transducer cable. Looks like I don't have to replace it. I gently carved back the insulation around the melted parts and can't see any physical damage to the cable! So as soon as I get the new power lines run I will have to take her out and see if the FF still works! Otherwise it is back to Canadian Tire for a new one!
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Old 08-24-2010, 07:45 AM
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"I had a meltdown when I unplugged the battery last time. Seems my positive and ground touched and melted each other all the way back to the battery. The wires were teeny 22gauge from the looks of it? I am damn lucky I didn't melt a hole in the boat!!!!"

That is exactly why everyone should have a inline fuse.

I have read some post from a FF mfg and they said you can cut and splice the tranny cable. What you need to do is to stagger your solder joints so they don't short out on each other. The most difficult part I saw was the re-installation of the braided jacket or a metallic shield to prevent the pick-up of RF interference at the solder joint (exposed/unshielded wires). To make everything nice and neat, I would use some heat shrink tube to pull everything tight, seal the ends, and make it look pretty.
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Old 08-24-2010, 09:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rrdstarr View Post
I had a meltdown when I unplugged the battery last time. Seems my positive and ground touched and melted each other all the way back to the battery. The wires were teeny 22gauge from the looks of it? I am damn lucky I didn't melt a hole in the boat!!!! I'll have to take a closer look at the cable, it maybe only the plastic/rubber shielding is damaged.

I have bought some 12 gauge wire, in-line fuse and 2 wire plug like this to repair the power cable.


I just looked at my transducer cable. Looks like I don't have to replace it. I gently carved back the insulation around the melted parts and can't see any physical damage to the cable! So as soon as I get the new power lines run I will have to take her out and see if the FF still works! Otherwise it is back to Canadian Tire for a new one!
The first power box I set-up had a marine outlet & plug...it worked well but if the boat got jostled around it would sometimes loose contact.

On the second box I assembled (for a buddy), I used the 2-wire plug like you bought and it works great. Due to it being a tight fit, I coated it with electrical grease with positive results.
I would seal the area that you "carved back" on the transducer cable with liquid electrical tape, to keep out the elements.
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  #10  
Old 08-26-2010, 02:33 AM
Rrdstarr
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Lt. today I am going to lay out the new wiring harness and solder the connections and then put heat shrink tubing on those connections. I will pick up some dielectric grease to for the 2 pin connector.

Thanks!
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